Welcome to our informational web pages
This is a shared collection of pictures and information for our New Holland TC-40D SS tractor
Links to our other informational pages include

Our TC-40D-SS New Holland tractor
Adding front hydraulics to a TC-40D-SS
Building a bucket grapple for a TC-40D-SS
Adding a snowplow to a TC-40D-SS
Building a dolly for a 757C New Holland backhoe
Building a boom sprayer with foam marker
Dealing with wheel weights on a TC-40D-SS
Adding a larger toolbox to a TC-40D-SS
Removing 17LA loader on a TC-40D-SS
Adding rear remotes to a TC-40D-SS

This section covers building a dolly for a 757C New Holland Backhoe

In the past we have always stored our 757C New Holland backhoe within our pole barn 
and although the floor is concrete once the backhoe was disconnected from our 
TC-40D-SS tractor moving it was almost near impossible.

  We have always parked it on two wood appliance dollies but the backhoe weighs 
between 850 to 900 pounds and the wheels on the wood appliance dollies are so small 
that moving the backhoe within the pole barn was still not an easy task. We were also 
very concerned about the strength of the wood supporting the heavy weight of the 
backhoe itself not to mention the lack of stability involved.

  So we decided some time back that it would be a good project to put together a heavy 
steel framed dolly that utilized large solid steel swivel castors to make moving the backhoe 
within the pole barn easy work. This dolly will fit the 757C and should also fit the Rhino/SMC 
since they manufactured the 757C backhoe for New Holland. We settled on 2” X 2” X ¼” square 
steel tubing for the main frame of the dolly. One-quarter inch thick steel tubing is probably 
overkill for this application but we didn’t want to have to make a second dolly because the first 
one wasn't strong enough to do the job properly, and the finished weight of the dolly itself really 
was not a major consideration since it will move on four ball bearing steel casters.

We scribbled some idea down on paper, changed them and scribbled more. 
When we finally came up with somewhat of a game plan another 
TBN member was kind enough to CAD the drawing for us.

This is how the finished dolly will look. We wanted to keep the widest part of the dolly at the 
end that will support the majority of the backhoe weight for stability purposes but we also 
needed to narrow the opposing end that will need to slide up under and between the rear tires 
of the New Holland tractor itself. Note that the widest part of the dolly will still be no wider
 than the width of the backhoe itself.

We purchased a length of 6” X ¼” X 6’ flat steel and three 12 foot lengths of the 2 X 2 X ¼” square 
steel tubing from a local steel re-cycle distributor (Summit Equipment & Supplies) that sells salvaged 
steel by the pound. 

We also purchased four solid steel swivel castors off the Internet that were 2 inches wide and 5 inches 
in diameter from Surplus Center.  I have also seen these same castors offered at Tractor Supply 
Company but for considerably more money.

You can see from our picture that the wheel assemblies are heavily constructed, all ball bearings, 
each swivel, and have two zerk fittings to keep them moving easy. Weight capacity of each steel 
wheel is 650 pounds each and the wheel assembly weighs in at 9 pounds, that’s 36 pounds of 
weight in the wheels alone.

NOTE: If you will be making one of these dollies for your own use I would highly recommend 
cutting your materials using our material list and then I recommend that you lay out and only 
tack weld your project. Then, even before mounting the wheels to the dolly frame slowly ease your 
backhoe down on your dolly frame to be sure that no minor adjustments are needed before doing 
the finish welding. Once you are satisfied with all alignment then lift the backhoe from the dolly 
frame and do all finish welding. It's a lot easier to make any small adjustments this way. 
Casters can and should be added last.

Dolly is primed prior to paint.

We hit the dolly with a couple of coats of semi-gloss black enamel.

Inverted with castors mounted

This is how the 757C New Holland backhoe looks resting on the finished dolly. Notice that the 
dolly adds no extra width or length to the backhoe itself. We can now lock the backhoe boom to 
prevent side to side as well as up and down motion while it rests squarely on the dolly. This 
way once the backhoe hydraulics relax the position of the backhoe on the dolly will not change. 
We used a single adjustable strap to hold the 757C backhoe tight to the dolly which also
 adds an extra measure of stability. Because we used swivel casters for all four wheels, 
we can now spin the backhoe a full 360 degrees while strapped to the dolly with very 
little effort at all. The backhoe itself is also very stable on the dolly. Our only problem is 
that the backhoe and dolly moves so smoothly with the ball bearing solid steel casters 
that we have to be careful that it doesn't get away from us when we're pushing it, a 
problem that we can easily live with.

We use but one strap to keep the backhoe on the dolly. 
The dolly moves easily on a concrete floor and is very stable.

To remove the backhoe from the tractor we set both stabilizers down and lower the boom 
on the floor to slightly raise the backhoe. We then pull the front pins on the sub-frame 
mount for the 757C backhoe, yank the top link off and slowly pull forward away from the 
backhoe. Once we are just clear of the backhoe we idle the tractor down, set the parking 
brake, and place it in neutral. We then wheel the dolly under the backhoe and slowly 
lower the backhoe onto the dolly. The welded stops that we added to the dolly always 
place the backhoe in the same position time after time. We then raise and lock the 
backhoe boom, and raise the stabilizers. We have always used a short length of nylon
 rope to tie the stabilizers together least they will start to sag when the backhoe is 
stored. We also use one adjustable strap to lock the backhoe to the dolly. We then stop 
the engine and cycle all the backhoe controls to equalize the hydraulic pressure then 
disconnect the backhoe hydraulic lines at the quick-connect fittings. The 
dolly/backhoe can now easily be backed away from the tractor.

To install the backhoe on the tractor we park the tractor, raise the 3-point hitch, set the 
parking brake, and stop the engine. We then maneuver the backhoe/dolly as close to the 
tractor as needed and connect the backhoe hydraulic lines using the factory quick-connects. 
We remove the length of nylon rope that we use to tie the stabilizers together and remove 
the adjustable strap that ties the backhoe to the dolly. We then fire up the tractor, slightly 
raise the boom so that the backhoe boom lock can be released, and lower the stabilizers in 
conjunction with the boom to lift and stabilize the backhoe while raising it up squarely and 
clear of the dolly. We then maneuver the dolly out from under the backhoe and continue 
to mate the backhoe to the tractor in the normal fashion. The dolly takes all the work 
out of moving and aligning the heavy backhoe.

Disclaimer: Please use this dolly at your own risk. We make no guarantee 
for your particular use.